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Moss
Removal & Prevention
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Moss is familiar to probably everyone living in the Pacific Northwest. It will crowd out lawn grasses,
and it grows best when 3 conditions are met: moist ground, shade and a pH of 6.2.
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Any metal will kill moss. For lawn moss, I use ferrous sulfate with 30% iron; on roofs, I use zinc sulfate
monohydrate. Killing the moss reduces its size and its grip on the ground and the grass, so I always recommend having
me kill it before pulling it out with my thatcher. Here are examples of pulling dead moss.
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Click on a picture to enlarge it.
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Example #1
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This lawn has growing bare spots caused by a heavy moss growth. Walking on it is like walking on a foam mattress.
This photo was taken after killing the moss.
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I've pulled out the dead moss and it's ready for raking and vacuuming.
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Now, with the moss gone, you can see the bare spots. The grass that was there is still there, only now it can breathe
and be fed back to optimum health.
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Example #2
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This is obviously taken after running the thatcher over most of the lawn. This is an example of extremely
heavy moss and thatch.
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I came back about 3 weeks later to take this "after" picture, as you can tell by the new growth on the
neighbor's trees in the background.
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“Healthy yards through
knowledge and experience”
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STEVE MILLER Owner / Laborer Licensed,
Bonded, Insured 360-258-6383
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The best choice to call when you want:
- Hand thinned & shaped shrubs, hedges &
trees
- Lawn maintenance including cut new edges; bark; aerate; dethatch; feed; treat pH & clay; insect, disease,
& weed control
- Roof, concrete, deck & fence cleaning and treatment
- Retaining walls, fences, sheds
& decks built
- Over-seeding and lawns installed
- Sprinkler systems designed, installed and maintained
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